At first sight, the town of WAMENA appears to be the only blot on the wonderful rural landscape of the Baliem Valley, with characterless tin-roofed buildings and slurry-filled drainage trenches. But it's a spacious place, and missionary houses lie on manicured lawns behind white picket fences, amongst the strolling, naked Dani and their ubiquitous pigs. The town rarely suffers the daytime swelter of sea-level towns, and at night you'll need a blanket. The marketplace is a real attraction, stocked with snakes, frogs, Baliem river goldfish, cuscus and horim penis gourds, and alive with Dani and Lani peoples in traditional dress.
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